The City of Lights

Paris is not entirely clean of Christmas, even now at the cusp of the second week of February. A full month after Epiphany, the traditional galettes des rois, a flaky round pastry filled with a crumbly marzipan, still peek at onlookers from patisserie windows. Just yesterday, while strolling through the back streets of the 15e, I spotted a tiny nativity scene still installed, a blithe seasonal anachronism, in the shop window of a confiserie.

But little by little, they have mostly disappeared. I’ll tell you what I loved the most—and now miss the most. The lights.

Here's an impressionistic, woefully incomplete sample.

Around November, the decorations go up on the big department stores in the 9e, near the Opéra Garnier: Printemps, and Galeries Lafayette. They're elaborate and legendary. Here's one of the famous window displays of the latter. The sidewalks get quite jammed with tourists on busy days, particularly in front of moving ones like this rotating "Cabaret" mannequin. 

A similar example from Printemps.

Both stores are pretty lavishly decorated, but the Galeries Lafayette claims the prize for its large and famous Christmas tree stretching from the ground floor to the beautiful central dome.

Meanwhile, in the quartiers, many streets (both major and minor) had themed lights strung across the buildings. Some were simple, like this example from the Marais.

Rue des Rosiers, 4e.

Others were slightly more elaborate. 

Somewhere in the 7e.

Also in the 7e.

Rue de Buci, 6e.

Some public decorations were cuter in the daytime. 

Near Shakespeare and Co., 5e.

Panthéon, 5e.

Hotels and luxury shopping were among the most decorated façades.

Near the Etoile, 8e.

Border of the 17e.

Wealthier clientele often means more elaborate displays.

Display in Place Vendôme.

Of course, like its American counterpart, Disneyland Paris does a lovely campy Christmas, complete with an embarrassment of lights.

Main Street, USA

Sleeping Beauty Castle

After our trip to Strasbourg, I made it a point to go to most of the Christmas markets in Paris. Three stood out: the Champs-Elysées for sheer size and centrality, La Défense for authenticity, and Trocadéro for the perfect blend.

Trocadéro is just across the Seine from the Eiffel Tower, affording a lovely view to marketers and ice skaters.

Like many Christmas displays, the market has a skating rink.

Vin chaud, lights, and an iconic monument. What more could one want from Christmastime?

 You'll have noticed, no doubt, the lovely lights on the Tour Eiffel that seem to have appeared from nowhere. In fact, these aren't a holiday feature; once the sun goes down, for a few minutes every hour on the hour, there is a display of small, glittering lights that jump around the tower from base to spire.

Just before the hour strikes...

...and just after.

It was bizarre and lovely, by the way, to see the Champ de Mars under a layer of snow.

The other Christmas market I saw at night was La Défense, a little outside of Zone 1 central Paris. Sophia and I made the trip to the end of ligne 1 and soaked in the sights.

La Défense is sleek and industrial, so it was a little strange to see such a quaint, almost kitschy amount of Christmas here. 

Just outside the market proper.

An even more elaborate display.

 But it was lush and satisfyingly seasonal, with constellations hung over the tents.

The industrial skyscrapers in the background bring out the quaintness of the little market, don't you think?

Yes, Paris is at her best as the City of Lights in December. 

But funnily enough, one of my most satisfying memories among these impressive displays is simple: the night I came home and saw the lobby of my apartment building all dolled up.

I guess it's true what that silly old Christmas song says about the prettiest sight to see.

Happy, light-filled belated Solstice to all. And bonne année.